Three Wineries 90 Minutes from Washington, D.C. You Should Visit
(By Elizabeth Tuico) Virginia Wine County is coming into its own. When I began visiting these wineries 25 years ago, I went primarily for the vivid scenery and good company of my friends. Now, I enjoy the wines, especially the reds. The Virginia tourism website estimates over three hundred wineries operate in the state from the coastal plains to the Appalachian Mountains.
Food & Wine recently stated, “Virginia has raised itself to the upper echelons of American wine.” Virginia wineries produce popular varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, and less widely known ones such as Viognier and Norton. More notably, Wine Enthusiast named Charlottesville the Wine Region of the Year for 2023.
Below is my review of three wineries you should visit in Virginia.
Barboursville Vineyards
Barboursville Vineyards is the first winery in Virginia to successfully grow European grapes and one of the state’s most critically acclaimed. Gianni Zonin established the winery 1976, and his family has been producing wine in Italy since the 1800’s. It was a vineyard manager named Gabriele Rausse that put Barboursville on the wine map when he planted Vitis Vinifera, a European variety, which thrived. Rausse graciously shared his insight and expertise with other start-up wineries, promoting continued growth and success of Virginia viticulture.
Barboursville Vineyards specializes in Italian grape varieties such as Nebbiolo, Barbera, Fiano, and Vermentino. Today, the talented winemaker Luca Paschina oversees the operations. (I had the opportunity to chat with Luca, an eccentric chap devoted to Barboursville’s wine-making process since 1990.) Barboursville earns high recognition for their wines, such as the flagship Octagon red Bordeaux blend, Viognier, and Chardonnay. Wine tastings are available for $20. (At the time of my visit in March 2024, the tasting room still used machines installed during pandemic times to make the pours. The staff told us they planned to return to the manual method.)
View from the restaurant at Barboursville Vineyards
Visitors can stroll the extensive grounds, which includes the ruins of the mansion Thomas Jefferson built for the original owner. Three dining options are also available, a more casual set up in the tasting room, the Library 1821 Experience, or the Palladio Restaurant. While you sip, check out an exhibition detailing their signature wine in the Octagon Barrel Room. If you would like to stay over, note that the elegant onsite lodging at the 1804 Inn & Cottages books up quickly.
Barboursville Vineyards
17655 Winery Road, Barboursville, VA 22923
Phone: 540-832-3824
Open: (Tasting Room) Monday - Saturday: 10 am - 5 pm, Sunday: 11 am-5 pm
Gray Ghost Vineyards
I stumbled across Gray Ghost Vineyards when searching for festive holiday events last year. Gray Ghost celebrates its 30th year in 2024 with a variety of celebrations. During my visit, not only did I enjoy quality wines, but the right mixture of southern hospitality and pride for their products.
Al and Cheryl Kellert founded Gray Ghost Vineyards. The couple spent years learning about winemaking before purchasing their land in Rappahannock County. A former apple orchard headquarters, Amissville proved to be the ideal location for a vineyard with fertile soils and the Blue Ridge Mountains to the west, which helped shield delicate crops from damaging rains.
In 1986, the Kellerts transplanted 160 vines from their Northern Virginia neighborhood. These plantings continued for years. Gray Ghost currently cultivates over 8,000 vines on thirteen acres with such varieties as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Riesling, Vidal Blanc, and Seyval Blanc. At first, the Kellerts sold their grapes to surrounding wineries. In 1993, they kept all the fruit and produced their first Gray Ghost Vineyards wines. Still family-owned today, quality remains the goal.
Gray Ghost’s Ranger Reserve is a popular Bordeaux blend. Other notable wines include a full-bodied Petit Verdot and Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon made from 100% estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which only occur in exceptional growing seasons.
All the grapes are hand-picked, and the owners organize a harvest event at the end of every summer for customers. Gray Ghost Vineyards maintains the longest running, largest volunteer harvest program in Virginia. Registration for this popular, free event must be in person at the winery. Harvest registration is open February through August each year. Harvest takes place in September and October. (I plan to attend so expect a follow up article on my grape picking adventure.)
This winery maintains an active calendar of fun events. Remember to call ahead a make a reservation for Gray Ghost’s winery tour. Guests are welcome to bring picnics, but no food is available for purchase at the winery. Food trucks come by on weekends. Check the website for details. Washington, Virginia (home to the Inn at Little Washington) is ten miles down the road from Gray Ghost. We enjoyed lunch at Patty O's Cafe & Bakery (389 Main Street, Washington, VA 22747| Phone: 540-675-3801) before heading to Gray Ghost Vineyards.
Gray Ghost Vineyards
14706 Lee Highway, Amissville, VA 20106
Telephone: 540-937-4869
Open: Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and federal holiday Mondays 11 am to 5 pm
Naked Mountain Winery
Looking for a relaxed atmosphere with good wines for a day in the country? Check out Naked Mountain. Founded in 1976, Naked Mountain Winery sits on the base of the Shenandoah Mountains off 1-66 in Markham, Virginia. I visited on a picture-perfect fall day and enjoyed their signature wines, Barrel Fermented Chardonnay and a Bordeaux style blend, Raptor Red. Like the other wineries in this article, Naked Mountain enjoys a long history and accolades for their blends.
Bob and Phoebe Harper planted the first vines on the property in 1976 when they realized that wine grapes would grow in the same climate as peaches. The founders slowly grew the business, earning Virginia Governor’s Cups and a legion of fans near Front Royal and The Plains. In 2010, they sold the land and winery to Randy and Meagan Morgan who have since renovated and expanded the original operations.
Visitors can enjoy their wines on an outdoor patio or comfortable inside lounge while listening to live music. (During my visit, a wedding reception took place on the back deck.) Wine tastings are $20. I opted for the $15 pre-selected, self-guided wine flight (featuring five wines). Their onsite kitchen prepares a hearty selection of panini sandwiches and small plates.
Want to spend the night nearby? The acclaimed Ashby Inn is seven miles away in Paris, Virginia. (Note that Uber or Lyft does not service Naked Mountain Winery’s remote location.)
Naked Mountain Winery
2747 Leeds Manor Road, Markham VA 22643
Phone: 540-364-1609
Open: Monday - Thursday 11 am -5 pm, Friday and Sunday 11 am-6 pm, Saturday 11 am -7 pm
Why are Virginia wines better?
In my early days of Virginia wine tasting, too many varieties tasted flat. Today, these wines are so much richer. Why? The simple answer is Virginia winemakers are better at grafting.
Vines in the Vinifera (European) family cannot survive on their roots in American soil because an insect called grape phylloxera that eats the roots, killing the vines. To grow European varieties, vine cuttings must be grafted to American rootstock. Over time, different rootstock developed to thrive in the soils of Virginia, thus making the wines more complex.
Even if you do not drink wine, visit a winery in Virginia. The spectacular vistas are worth the drive alone. Get out and enjoy a winery day trip about 90 minutes from Washington, D.C.
Elizabeth Tuico owns Rebel Road Creative, a marketing and content writing consultancy based in Washington, D.C. She loves to travel, and On the Road with Rebel Road Creative is her ongoing travel series.