All Aboard Amtrak’s Empire Builder
(By Elizabeth Tuico) A two-day ride on the Empire Builder, one of Amtrak’s historic routes through the American West, was my standout trip of 2022. Traveling west from Chicago to Seattle, I saw magnificent views of the Mississippi River, the North Dakota plains and Montana’s Big Sky country.
The Empire Builder is one of Amtrak’s most popular long distance trains with annual ridership of over 500,000 passengers. In late September, I sat back and took in vast plains and rugged mountain ranges.
46 Hours on a Train
I left Chicago on a Tuesday afternoon and arrived in Seattle on a Thursday morning. The journey began in the first class lounge at Chicago’s Union Station. After some confusion, we boarded at 3 pm. The first major stop is Milwaukee, followed by the night skyline of Minneapolis and St. Paul. (A slew of passengers got on the train in St. Paul at 11 pm.) On Wednesday, I woke up in the North Dakota plains and traveled over the Gassman Coulee Trestle. In the afternoon, we headed to Big Sky country hitting Glacier National Park at dusk. Amtrak engineers separate the cars in Spokane in the middle of the night on day two. My section (along with the dining car) headed off to Seattle while the remaining railcars broke off to go to Portland. During my last hours on the train, I was mesmerized by the beautiful Cascades in Washington State and then by the stillness of the Puget Sound. After 46 hours of travel, I arrived at Seattle’s King Street Station at 11 am.
During the day, I primarily stared out the window. I brought a book, but never cracked it open. I was surprised to have cell service for most of the trip, but no WiFi. Passengers enjoy two long outdoor breaks in Minot, ND and Havre, MT on day two, which is the only full day on the train. I got off and walked around each station. In the evenings after a relaxed dinner, I retreated to my roomette and listed to podcasts.
On my route, I enjoyed six hearty meals – two dinners, one lunch and two breakfasts. Bottled water and coffee were available in the first class zones.
First Class Roomette
I splurged and booked a 6.6 feet x 3.6 wide roomette, the smallest sleeping compartment on the bottom level of a two-story sleeper car. Cozy describes the space which features two seats facing each other and an upper bunk. If you are tall or claustrophobic, the roomette isn’t for you. (I also wouldn’t recommend sharing the space. When pulled down, the upper bunk is only about 18 inches from the ceiling.)
The two seats transform into a comfy bed. Jimmy, my delightful cabin attendant, made my bed up each evening. A foam mattress from the top bunk is placed on the flat seats along with a fluffy pillow and two blankets. Ample lighting is a bonus in the roomette along with electrical outlets. The sleeping rooms lock from the inside but not when you leave. (Before you get on the train, think about how you will secure valuable items.)
Luggage is an issue in these tight quarters. A large bag will not fit in the room when the seats become a bed. There was just enough space for my small carry on to remain on the floor. My neighbors stowed full-size roller bags in the top bunk. Larger bags must be stored outside the roomettes in the common area. [Pro tip: Use packing cubes for your essentials during the two-day trip for better organization.]
Three toilet rooms are available in the common area along with a shower room on each level. I took a shower. Much like a campsite, you push a button to release the hot water which runs for about 90 seconds. The train rocks, so you must remain steady on your feet, but warm, fluffy towels await at the finish line.
History of the Route
The Empire Builder is named for James J. Hill, the founder of the Great Northern Railway. Hill reorganized several failing railroads into the only successful privately-funded transcontinental railroad. When the rails reached the Pacific Northwest in the late 1800s, Hill was nicknamed The Empire Builder.
The route across the Northern U.S. started in 1929 and stops at over 40 towns throughout Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Washington State/Oregon. Despite waning interest in rail travel after World War II, the Empire Builder remained a popular route. In 1971, the Great Northern Railway became part of National Railroad Passenger Corporation, otherwise known as Amtrak. Today, the Empire Builder is the second most popular long distance route in America.
Surprises
There were a few surprises on this train trip. 1) I slept like a rock both nights in my cozy roomette. 2) The food is very good. These long-haul trips come with a chef. I enjoyed my meals in the dining car that functioned just like a restaurant complete with tablecloths and roses in tiny vases. You even get one alcoholic drink at dinner. [Pro tip: don’t forget to bring cash so you can tip the servers and your cabin attendant.] 3) During meals, I was seated at a random table. I met some fascinating people and learned more about long distance train travel. I spent time with a fellow solo traveler who took the train from Boston to Chicago, making her trip truly transcontinental. Hats off to Margo. (I flew to Chicago.) 4) The Amish use Amtrak as their primary mode of long distance travel since they do not fly. There were over 70 Amish folks on my train who disembarked at 2 am in Minnesota during the first night.
Working Hard for the Money
Amtrak employees work very hard on these long haul trips and get very little rest. My crew was based in Seattle. They work six straight days – three days out to Chicago and three days back to Seattle with an overnight in a Chicago hotel. Employees get their own roomette on the train but only average about five hours of sleep each night. My cabin attendant was on call 24x7 during the trip. After a three-day break at their Seattle homes, the crew is back on board for another six-day assignment.
These days, Amtrak is short staffed and that’s why boarding the Empire Builder in Chicago was not smooth. To get to the trains, you must walk through long corridors, and some passengers created a bottleneck. Finally, one of the conductors got the group to move forward so ticketed passengers could board the Empire Builder.
In Minot, a passenger was removed from the train due to a health emergency. The Amtrak crew and local fire department handled the situation very efficiently.
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely. I learned from my Tuesday evening dinner companion, who is a retired rail engineer, that one of the best U.S. train trips is the California Zephyr going west from Chicago to California. (It’s also Amtrak’s #1 long distance route.) The California Zephyr is now on my travel list.
Taking the train is a low stress and efficient way to take in the scenery around the United States. Plus, it’s fun.
Elizabeth Tuico owns Rebel Road Creative, a marketing + content writing consultancy based in Washington, DC.