(By Elizabeth Tuico) The pre-dawn sky twinkled as I started my car at 4:30 am on the last Saturday in August. After a stop to pick up my friend (who provided coffee), we merged onto Interstate 66 on route to Amissville, Virginia and Gray Ghost Vineyards. Our deadline was 6:15 am, the sunrise-start to Gray Ghost Vineyards’ first volunteer harvest of the 2024 season.

Gray Ghost operates the longest running, largest volunteer harvest program in the Commonwealth of Virginia. For an opportunity to participate in this free event, volunteers must register in person at the winery. Harvest registration is open February through August each year. Harvest takes place in September and October. I made our reservation in February.

Known as les vendanges in French, harvest season is an intense time of concentrated manual labor. Wine making is also farming, so harvest time varies from year to year. When the winemaker determines that the grapes are ready, they must be picked within a few days. In mid-August, I called Gray Ghost Vineyards and spoke to Amy, marketing director and daughter of the founders, Al and Cheryl Kellert. Amy explained that so many factors go into when it is time to harvest, she could not provide an exact time.

Gray Ghost Vineyard’s priority is maintaining healthy vines all year. Towards the end of summer, Al and his team look for bud breaks. The next step is to monitor the vines for veraison or grape ripening. As the grapes ripen, sugar levels go up and acids drop. Random grape samples provide sugar and acid levels while tastings determine varietal character. Once the optimum balance of sugar, acid, and taste align, the grapes can be harvested (if the weather cooperates).   

Ready, set: Can you show up in four days?

Two weeks later, Amy called, remembering our conversation. The first batch of grapes were ready for harvest and the weather forecast was clear.

Driving to the Shenandoah Valley as the sun rose at the end of summer was stunning. We arrived at the winery right on time and were surprised to join a cadre of volunteers – over 60 participants. Most people lived within 20 minutes of Gray Ghost Vineyards and knew the drill; I had stumbled upon veteran grape harvesters.

What to expect

The group enjoyed breakfast before the training began. We received a full briefing on how to cut the grapes from the vines and fill up the bins. The fruit is delicate, and green leaves often conceal green grapes so pickers must comb through the plants. All fruit must be cut from the vines and carefully placed in bins.

Instructions on how high to fill the bins were the most important. After the harvest, a paid crew retrieved the fruit. Bins with too few grapes were discouraged. Bins that were too full would slow down the pickup process. Finding the sweet spot is the challenge.

Gray Ghost Vineyards provided gloves and clippers, which were very sharp. And off we went to harvest grapes.

How to pick wine grapes

Everyone arrived at the vineyard as a pair, which was fortuitous, since Gray Ghost leaders engaged two volunteers per row of grapes. My friend and I stayed on opposite sides of the plants. We worked in tandem, cutting the white grapes off the vines and placing the fruit in the bin on the ground. I am short and found that the grapes were at eye level. Bending over to place the grapes in the bin was not difficult.

The team worked for about an hour, and then we returned to the main building for a 15-minute break. We went back out to a different section and harvested more white grapes using the same system.

Full bins weighed about 10 pounds. My friend and I picked six full pallets of grapes in about 90 minutes. Our reward: a cheeseburger and a glass of Gray Ghost Vineyard’s fine wine. (Amy did offer discounts on cases of wine too.)

What to wear

I approached my grape picking experience like a hiking trip. However, this level of preparation was not necessary. I wore long pants, sneakers, a long sleeve shirt, and a wide brimmed hat. I arrived with a full daypack and was asked not to wear it into the fields. I went back to my car and emptied half the contents, but still wore my daypack filled with water, sunscreen, and bug spray. I was afraid of bugs, but to my relief, there were no bugs. My condensed daypack did not get in the way, but a big backpack would have been cumbersome.

The morning dew made the grass wet, so keep that in mind. Most people went to the fields without anything, including water. I needed water and sunscreen. (After all, it was August in Virginia.) Next year, I will bring a smaller bag and wear water-proof shoes. I did see folks with portable stools and knee pads.

Distinguished marketing event

One thing was clear – Gray Ghost Vineyards’ annual harvest is a popular, joyful event. Only a handful of people were first timers. Everyone enjoyed participating in this unique agricultural experience.

Volunteer harvests are common in France and Italy which spawned a new category of tourism. Showing up to pick vineyard grapes loosely reflects the rural European tradition of villagers helping with the annual harvest and then celebrating with a meal.

Mr. Kellert remarked that there are only slim profits in winemaking, and our volunteer efforts helped the bottom line.

Another smart requirement is to only accept in-person applications for the volunteer harvest. That almost guarantees additional sales since it is hard to go to a winery and not drink any wine.

Spending the morning at Gray Ghost Vineyards cutting grapes from the vines was an excellent way to cap off the summer.

Gray Ghost Vineyards (20 minutes from Warrenton and Culpeper) | 14706 Lee Highway, Amissville, VA 20106