(By Elizabeth Tuico) It’s been over two years since I made a Rebel Road on the Road post. After a trip to Antarctica (via Argentina) was cancelled early this year, I’ve been hesitant to leave the country. Antarctica would have been my seventh continent. I will get there someday.

Motivated by goals, I decided a productive post-lockdown mission is to visit all 50 states. I met my friend JB in Cleveland in June instead of Buenos Aires in February. (Yes, Cleveland was our substitute for the aborted Argentina and Antarctica excursion.) This recent trip puts Ohio at #40 on my state list.

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame has been on my travel list since it opened in 1995. I love music and closely follow the selection process every year. (I also participate in the Fan Vote.) Designed by I.M. Pei, the Rock Hall sits on the shores of Lake Erie, next to the Science Museum and the Browns football stadium. Like the Louvre in Paris, the structure is highlighted by a glass pyramid.

Most of the exhibits are on the ground floor. The origins of rock music are explored in addition to rock legends. We enjoyed the Beatle’s Get Back to Let It Be exhibit which streams highlights from the Peter Jackson docuseries. It features the band’s 1969 rehearsals, studio sessions and rooftop concert (where George and Ringo wear their wives’ coats), which is their final live performance. It’s also fun to watch Yoko and Linda chatting in the corner.

Elvis, Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones are prominent. There are some omissions like The Police and Led Zeppelin, which made me wonder. The second floor is devoted to playing music. Guitars and drums are available for impromptu jam sessions. (I played the pinball machines.) The Power of Rock, a 12-minute film by Jonathan Demme, was a cheerful way to end my visit.

One thing to note – it’s really loud in the Rock Hall. Music pours into almost every room. I’m not sure why this surprised me. It is difficult to talk to the person next to you at times.

Flats District

We stayed at the Aloft hotel in the Flats District. Named for its low-lying topography, this area is on the banks of the winding Cuyahoga River, which connects to Lake Erie in the north and mid-Ohio for 100 miles south. The views are tremendous in this part of the city which was once an active industrial center dotted with iron furnaces, foundries, shipyards, oil refineries, lumberyards and factories.

The Cuyahoga River, which had been heavily polluted from decades of heavy industrial manufacturing, caught fire in 1969. This event was front page news across the country. Over time, Ohio cleaned up the river, and the businesses in the area either closed or moved. This transition gave developers a steel-frame canvas to create vibrant shopping and residential districts. (Despite an active railway and port.)

Flats District is charming and full of energy. Seated outside on the riverbank, we had a delightful seafood dinner at Alley Cat Oyster Bar.  27 Club served up morning coffee hipster-style. Across the Cuyahoga on the West Bank, there is an outdoor music venue called Jacobs Pavilion which hosts of variety of entertainers.

Cleveland Museum of Art

Cleveland Museum of Art is a real gem showcasing more than 45,000 diverse pieces from various periods. It’s located in the Wade Park District within the University Circle neighborhood on the city's east side. JB figured out how to take the bus to the museum, which was $5 roundtrip. Admission is always free. We spent an entire day at this sprawling museum enjoying the collections.

Goodtime III

The weather was fantastic throughout the trip. On our last day, we decided a boat ride was an appropriate final activity. We booked passage on the Goodtime III for a two-hour tour of Cuyahoga River and Lake Erie. Calm seas and a warm breeze were all we needed.

The crew is courteous and safety conscious. For about an hour, we learned fun facts about the Flats District as we sailed around the Cuyahoga River. The remaining hour was spent on Lake Erie which gave us wonderful views of the Cleveland skyline.

Traveling today is more difficult than ever. With flight delays, surging gas prices and inflation, vacations must be planned with precision. Cleveland didn’t disappoint. You can take public transportation all around the city, including to the airport. It’s also a very walkable city. Known as a sports town, Cleveland’s football stadium, basketball arena and baseball stadium are close to the city center.  

Do some research before you go and map out an itinerary to make the most of your visit.

Where To Eat

Alley Cat Oyster Bar: 1056 Old River Road, Cleveland

Mabel’s BBQ: 2050 East 4th Street, Cleveland

Nuevo Modern Mexican & Tequila Bar: 1000 East 9th Street, Cleveland

Taza: 1400 West 6th Street, Cleveland

12/20/23 Update | Read this article from The Washington Post: America’s best example of turning around a dying downtown